Category: Garden Care

  • When and how to mulch garden borders

    When and how to mulch garden borders

    Mulching is one of the simplest ways to improve the conditions around established plants. A layer of material placed over the soil surface can reduce moisture loss, suppress some weeds, protect the surface from heavy rain and gradually add organic matter.

    The benefit depends on using the right material, at the right depth and at the right time.

    When is the best time to mulch?

    Spring and autumn are both useful periods. In spring, mulch can help conserve moisture before warmer weather arrives. In autumn, soil is often still relatively warm and moist, and organic material can begin settling into the border over winter.

    Avoid applying a thick mulch over soil that is extremely dry. Water first or wait for useful rainfall so moisture is present below the surface.

    Prepare the border first

    Remove established perennial weeds before mulching. Mulch can suppress small annual weeds, but it will not permanently solve vigorous bindweed, couch grass or other persistent roots beneath the surface.

    Also remove thick mats of fallen material where disease is a concern.

    Which material should you use?

    Well-rotted garden compost, leaf mould and composted bark are common organic options. Each behaves differently. Compost breaks down relatively quickly and contributes organic matter, while coarser bark products can remain visible longer.

    The best material depends on the planting, the desired appearance and what is available locally.

    How deep should mulch be?

    A token dusting disappears quickly and does little to suppress weeds. A useful mulch generally needs enough depth to form a continuous layer, often several centimetres.

    More is not always better. Very deep material can bury small plants and crowns or create unsuitable conditions around stems.

    Keep mulch away from crowns and woody stems

    Do not heap mulch directly against tree trunks, shrub stems or the crowns of perennials. Leave a small clear space around vulnerable plant bases.

    This keeps the natural relationship between stem and soil intact and avoids creating continuously damp material against bark.

    Spread it over the whole useful area

    Mulch works best as a surface treatment, not as isolated piles around individual plants. Spread it evenly through the border where practical.

    Work around emerging bulbs and low plants rather than covering them blindly.

    Do you need to dig mulch in?

    Usually not. Leaving organic mulch on the surface allows natural soil processes to incorporate it gradually. Worms and other organisms move material downward over time.

    This approach also protects soil structure by reducing unnecessary cultivation.

    Mulch and slugs

    Organic mulch creates a cooler, moister surface environment, which can also provide shelter for slugs. This does not mean mulch should automatically be avoided, but young vulnerable plants may need closer monitoring.

    Keep mulch slightly away from the smallest seedlings and inspect susceptible areas regularly.

    Mulch is not fertiliser

    Some organic mulches contribute nutrients as they break down, but their main purpose is often soil protection and organic matter. Do not assume a mulch provides every nutrient a plant might need.

    Repeat when necessary

    Organic mulches decompose and become part of the soil. That is useful, but it means the visible layer becomes thinner over time. Check borders each year and top up where needed rather than following a fixed calendar regardless of conditions.

    A simple habit with cumulative results

    Regular mulching can reduce watering pressure, moderate soil conditions and gradually improve the upper layer of a border. Done consistently, it is one of the least disruptive ways to improve garden soil.

    Read more in A simple guide to garden compost, Watering the garden in dry weather and Slugs in the garden.

  • How to renovate a tired lawn

    How to renovate a tired lawn

    A lawn does not need to be perfect to be useful. Wear, compacted soil, thin grass and patches of moss or weeds are normal in a garden that is actually used. Before replacing an entire lawn, it is often worth renovating what is already there.

    Spring and early autumn are useful renovation periods because grass can grow actively while temperatures are moderate and soil moisture is easier to maintain.

    First decide what is wrong

    Thin grass can have several causes: shade, compaction, drought, poor drainage, low fertility, heavy wear or mowing too short. Renovation works best when it addresses the cause rather than merely adding more seed.

    Walk the lawn and note where problems occur. A patch under dense tree shade needs a different solution from a worn path across an otherwise healthy lawn.

    1. Mow before you begin

    Cut the lawn moderately short so you can reach the surface easily, but avoid scalping it. Collect heavy clippings if they would interfere with the work.

    2. Remove excessive thatch and dead material

    Raking or scarifying can remove dead grass, moss and accumulated organic material from the surface. Do not assume every lawn needs aggressive scarification. A healthy lawn with little thatch may need only light raking.

    After this stage, the lawn can look worse temporarily. That is normal if a large amount of dead material has been removed.

    3. Relieve compaction

    Where the soil is compacted, aeration creates channels for air, water and roots. A garden fork can be adequate for a small lawn, while larger areas may justify a mechanical aerator.

    Concentrate effort where traffic is heaviest rather than treating every square metre identically.

    4. Overseed thin areas

    Choose a grass seed mixture suited to the conditions. Lawns in shade, family lawns and fine ornamental lawns need different mixtures.

    Seed must make contact with soil. Rake thin areas lightly, distribute seed evenly and press or firm it so it is not simply sitting on top of dead material.

    5. Top dress where appropriate

    A light suitable top dressing can help level small imperfections and improve seed-to-soil contact. Avoid burying existing grass beneath a thick layer.

    6. Keep new seed moist

    Germinating seed cannot tolerate repeated drying. Water gently and consistently until seedlings are established. Avoid heavy watering that washes seed into low spots.

    Do not mow new grass too soon

    Wait until the seedlings are tall and sufficiently rooted before the first cut. Use sharp mower blades and remove only a small portion of the height.

    Review mowing height

    Repeatedly cutting grass extremely short weakens it and makes dry weather more difficult. In many ordinary gardens, leaving the lawn slightly longer improves root depth and helps the grass compete more successfully.

    Consider whether every area needs to be lawn

    A permanently failing patch under deep shade or beside a heavily used route may be telling you something about the design rather than the grass.

    Alternative planting, stepping stones or a deliberately unmown area may be more successful than repeatedly repairing grass where conditions are unsuitable.

    Renovation before replacement

    Unless a lawn is fundamentally unsuitable or badly contaminated with perennial weeds, renovation is often faster, cheaper and less disruptive than removing everything and starting again.

    See also Watering the garden in dry weather and Should you leave part of the lawn unmown?.

  • How to tidy the autumn garden without overdoing it

    How to tidy the autumn garden without overdoing it

    Autumn used to be treated as the season for clearing the garden completely. Borders were cut to the ground, leaves were removed and every dead stem disappeared. A more selective approach is usually better for the garden and often looks better too.

    The aim is to remove what is genuinely diseased, dangerous or obstructive while leaving useful structure, seed heads and habitat where they can remain through winter.

    Start with what must be removed

    Diseased plant material deserves priority. Leaves and stems badly affected by certain diseases should not simply be left in place where they may contribute to future problems.

    Also remove collapsed growth from paths and access routes, broken branches and plants that are smothering small neighbours.

    Leave healthy perennial stems where useful

    Many ornamental grasses and perennials retain attractive structure through winter. Their seed heads catch low light and frost, while hollow stems and dense growth can shelter insects.

    Leaving these plants until late winter or early spring can extend the visual season and provide habitat at the same time.

    Do not remove every fallen leaf

    Leaves on paths, lawns and low evergreen plants may need clearing. Elsewhere they can be useful organic material.

    Move leaves from places where they cause problems into borders, under hedges or into a leaf-mould system rather than treating them automatically as waste.

    Keep lawns usable

    A thick wet layer of leaves can weaken grass, so lawns generally benefit from regular clearing during heavy leaf fall.

    Where desired, leave some less formal grass longer into winter rather than forcing the entire garden into the same management regime.

    Cut back plants that become a problem

    Not every dead perennial deserves to stay. Some collapse into a wet mass, hide paths or create ideal shelter directly around vulnerable crowns.

    Remove those selectively. The goal is not a rule that everything stays; it is choosing deliberately.

    Avoid disturbing the soil unnecessarily

    Autumn does not require every border to be deeply dug. Unless there is a specific reason, leave established soil structure intact.

    Remove perennial weeds carefully and mulch suitable areas instead of turning the whole border over.

    Check supports and ties

    Wind and winter weather expose weak supports. Check tree ties, climbing plant supports and stakes before storms make small problems larger.

    Loosen ties that are beginning to cut into stems and replace damaged supports.

    Protect vulnerable pots

    Containers are more exposed to frost because roots are surrounded by less insulating soil. Move vulnerable plants to more sheltered positions where appropriate and make sure drainage holes remain clear.

    Clean tools as the season slows

    Autumn is a useful time to clean soil from spades, forks and hand tools and check wooden handles, blades and moving parts. Tools stored clean and dry are easier to put back into service in spring.

    Leave food and shelter for wildlife

    Seed heads, leaf litter and dense planting all support wildlife through the colder months. A perfectly bare border offers very little shelter.

    Even a tidy garden can leave selected areas less disturbed.

    The garden does not need to look abandoned

    Selective autumn care can still look deliberate. Keep paths clear, edge important spaces, remove broken material and retain the strongest winter silhouettes.

    A good autumn garden is not one where nothing has been done. It is one where the right things have been left alone.

    See What to do with fallen leaves, Preparing the garden for winter, Making more room for wildlife and Keeping garden tools in good condition.

  • How to prune roses

    How to prune roses

    Pruning roses is less complicated than it first appears. The aim is not to cut every rose into the same shape, but to remove weak, damaged and badly placed growth while encouraging a strong framework that can carry healthy new shoots and flowers.

    For many established bush roses, late winter into early spring is the main pruning period. The exact timing depends on climate and rose type, but the useful signal is usually the same: the harshest winter weather is passing and buds are beginning to swell.

    First identify what kind of rose you have

    Hybrid teas, floribundas and many modern shrub roses can generally be pruned during late winter or early spring. Climbing and rambling roses are different and may require another approach because they flower on different types of wood.

    If you do not know the exact variety, look at how the plant grows. A compact bush that produces flowers on fresh shoots is usually treated differently from a large rose trained horizontally along a wall or arch.

    Use clean, sharp tools

    Good secateurs make pruning easier and leave cleaner cuts. Blunt blades crush stems rather than cutting them cleanly. For thicker stems, use loppers or a pruning saw instead of forcing ordinary secateurs beyond their comfortable capacity.

    Wear gloves and long sleeves when working among thorny stems, particularly on large established plants.

    1. Remove dead, damaged and diseased wood

    Begin with the obvious material. Dead wood often looks dry or discoloured and has no healthy buds. Damaged stems may be split, rubbed or broken. Diseased material should also be removed where appropriate.

    Cut back until the wood appears healthy. Removing this material first makes the remaining structure much easier to read.

    2. Remove crossing and inward-growing stems

    Stems rubbing against each other create wounds and congestion. Where two branches cross, keep the stronger or better-positioned one and remove the other.

    Also look for growth heading directly into the centre of the plant. An open framework improves airflow and makes the final shape easier to maintain.

    3. Remove weak growth

    Very thin, weak stems often contribute little to the final display and can crowd stronger shoots. Removing them allows the plant to direct more energy into a smaller number of useful branches.

    Do not remove every thin stem automatically. Use the overall structure of the rose as the guide.

    4. Shorten the remaining framework

    Once the plant is clean and open, shorten the remaining stems to encourage strong new growth. How hard you prune depends on rose type, age and vigour.

    Strong modern bush roses often tolerate fairly substantial pruning. Older shrub roses and varieties grown mainly for a natural shape may need lighter treatment.

    Where should the cut be made?

    Make the cut slightly above a healthy bud. An outward-facing bud is often chosen because the new shoot then grows away from the centre of the plant.

    A slight slope can help water run away from the bud, but the quality of the cut matters more than achieving a perfect angle. Avoid leaving a long dead stub above the bud, and avoid cutting so close that the bud itself is damaged.

    What about old, thick stems?

    Established roses sometimes benefit from gradual renewal. Removing one of the oldest stems close to the base can encourage fresh basal growth and prevent the framework becoming increasingly woody and congested.

    Do not automatically remove all old wood in one year. Renewal is usually better done progressively.

    After pruning

    Clear away fallen rose leaves and prunings where disease may have been present. Mulching around the plant can help retain soil moisture and improve the surface of the soil, but keep mulch away from direct contact with the stems.

    Where feeding is appropriate, apply it according to the needs of the rose and the product instructions rather than assuming more fertiliser will always produce a better plant.

    Common pruning mistakes

    • Using blunt secateurs that crush stems.
    • Leaving dead or crossing growth because the plant already looks sparse.
    • Pruning every rose type in exactly the same way.
    • Leaving long stubs above buds.
    • Cutting a weak plant extremely hard without considering why it is weak.
    • Ignoring the final shape and concentrating only on individual cuts.

    Pruning is about structure

    A well-pruned rose should not look mechanically symmetrical. It should have a clear framework, space for new growth and enough healthy wood to support the season ahead. Once dead, weak and badly placed stems are removed, the remaining decisions become much simpler.

    For related seasonal work, see Getting ready for spring and Keeping garden tools in good condition.

  • How to prune summer-flowering shrubs

    How to prune summer-flowering shrubs

    Many summer-flowering shrubs produce their flowers on new growth made during the current season. For these plants, pruning in late winter or early spring can encourage fresh vigorous shoots that later carry flowers.

    The important word is many. Shrubs flower on different types of wood, and pruning at the wrong time can remove an entire season’s flowers. Before cutting hard, identify whether the plant flowers on new growth or on stems produced the previous year.

    Why timing matters

    A shrub that flowers on new season growth has time to replace pruned stems and form flower buds later in the same year. A spring-flowering shrub often formed its flower buds on older wood months earlier. Pruning that shrub in late winter can remove those buds before they ever open.

    This difference is the foundation of good shrub pruning.

    Start by identifying the plant

    Examples of shrubs commonly pruned in late winter or early spring include certain buddlejas, hardy fuchsias, some hydrangeas and other plants that flower mainly on fresh growth. The correct treatment still depends on species and variety.

    If identification is uncertain, delay severe pruning until you know how the plant flowers. A year of observation is often less damaging than a confident cut made at the wrong time.

    1. Remove damaged and dead wood first

    Winter may leave stems split, dead or badly damaged. Remove these before making decisions about shape. Cut back to healthy material using sharp, clean tools.

    2. Remove badly placed growth

    Branches that rub, cross heavily or grow into neighbouring paths and plants may need removal. Taking out a few entire stems often produces a more natural result than shortening every branch indiscriminately.

    3. Decide how much new growth you want

    Some vigorous summer-flowering shrubs respond well to hard pruning and produce strong new stems from a low framework. Others are better reduced more moderately.

    Consider the mature size and position. A shrub repeatedly cut hard simply because it was planted in too small a space may never look convincing. Pruning cannot permanently solve a poor choice of plant.

    4. Cut to healthy buds or framework

    Where shortening stems, cut just above healthy buds. Where removing a branch completely, cut cleanly at its point of origin rather than leaving a long stub.

    Large branches require the correct saw and technique to avoid tearing bark.

    Renovating an old shrub

    A mature shrub with a congested centre can often be improved by removing some older stems at the base. This allows younger growth to develop and gradually renews the plant.

    For shrubs that do not respond well to drastic renovation, remove old wood over two or three seasons rather than stripping the plant in one operation.

    Do not prune purely for neatness

    A shrub is not a hedge. Cutting every shoot to the same outer surface can create dense twiggy growth and destroy the natural shape of the plant.

    Selective cuts usually produce a better result. Look into the structure and remove or shorten individual branches with a reason.

    Aftercare

    After substantial pruning, check the soil around the root zone. A shrub asked to produce a large amount of new growth will establish that growth more successfully if the soil is not competing heavily with weeds or suffering prolonged drought.

    Mulch can be useful after pruning, particularly on soil that dries rapidly, but do not pile organic matter directly against woody stems.

    The simple rule

    Before pruning any flowering shrub, answer one question: does it flower mainly on new growth or on older stems? Once that is clear, timing and severity become much easier to judge.

    Continue with Getting ready for spring and Planting a garden for the seasons.

  • How to improve heavy clay soil

    How to improve heavy clay soil

    Heavy clay soil can be difficult to work, but it is not poor soil by definition. Clay particles hold nutrients and water well, which can make clay surprisingly fertile. The challenge is structure: when wet it can become sticky and compacted, while during dry weather it may become hard and cracked.

    Improving clay is therefore less about replacing the soil and more about helping it form a better structure over time.

    Do not work clay when it is saturated

    One of the fastest ways to damage clay soil is to dig or walk on it when it is very wet. Pressure squeezes out air spaces and can turn the surface into dense slabs.

    Wait until the soil is moist but no longer sticky enough to smear heavily on tools and boots.

    Organic matter is the main long-term tool

    Well-rotted compost, leaf mould and other suitable organic materials can improve the way clay aggregates into crumbs. This creates more spaces for air and water movement and makes the soil easier to work.

    Improvement is gradual. A single application will not transform an entire garden, but repeated additions over several seasons can make a substantial difference.

    Mulch rather than repeatedly digging

    Organic mulch spread over the surface allows worms, roots and soil organisms to incorporate material naturally. This avoids the repeated disturbance that comes with deep annual digging.

    Apply mulch when the ground is moist rather than trapping severe dryness below a thick surface layer.

    Protect the surface

    Bare clay can form a hard crust under heavy rain or direct sun. Plants and mulch protect the surface from this repeated impact.

    Dense planting has another advantage: roots create channels through the soil and contribute organic matter as fine roots die and regrow.

    Avoid adding small quantities of sand

    Adding a little sand to heavy clay is often recommended casually, but small amounts do not necessarily improve structure and in some conditions can create an unpleasant dense mixture.

    Large-scale mineral amendment requires a clear understanding of soil texture and substantial quantities of material. For most garden situations, organic matter and better cultivation habits are more practical.

    Improve drainage carefully

    Water sitting on clay does not always mean the soil itself is the only problem. Compaction, low spots and surrounding hard landscaping can all prevent water from moving away.

    Before installing drains or raising beds, understand where the water is coming from and where it can safely go.

    Choose plants that suit the soil

    Some plants grow extremely well in moisture-retentive clay, while others resent winter wet around their roots. Plant selection can therefore reduce the amount of correction the garden needs.

    A plant that naturally suits heavier soil will generally establish more reliably than a plant that requires constant intervention to survive there.

    New planting in clay

    Avoid creating a narrow planting hole filled entirely with light compost. Roots may remain inside that pocket instead of moving into the surrounding soil.

    Loosen a wider area and blend improvements more gradually into the existing soil.

    Reduce compaction

    Permanent paths or stepping routes are useful in beds that require regular access. They prevent repeated foot traffic from compacting the same garden soil you are trying to improve.

    Think in years, not weekends

    Clay responds well to patient management. Add organic matter, minimise unnecessary compaction, protect the surface and choose plants that appreciate moisture-retentive soil. The cumulative effect is far more useful than trying to rebuild the soil in one dramatic operation.

    See also A simple guide to garden compost and Peat-free compost in the garden.

  • What to do with fallen leaves

    Fallen leaves can cover a garden quickly in autumn. They do not all need to be removed, but moving them from the right places keeps paths safe and gives lawns and small plants enough light.

    Clear paths and paving

    Wet leaves can become slippery, so paths, steps and frequently used paved areas are worth clearing regularly. Leaves can then be moved elsewhere in the garden rather than thrown away.

    Do not leave a thick layer on the lawn

    A heavy covering of leaves blocks light and air from the grass. Rake or collect them, particularly after large falls. A few scattered leaves are less of a problem.

    Use leaves in borders

    In less formal borders, a modest layer of leaves can break down naturally and provide shelter for insects and other small creatures. Avoid burying small evergreen plants under a thick, wet mat.

    Make leaf mould

    Collected leaves can be stored separately to decompose. A simple wire enclosure or ventilated bags can be used. Over time they break down into leaf mould, a useful material for improving soil structure and mulching.

    Some leaves take longer

    Thick, leathery leaves decompose more slowly than softer ones. Shredding them with a mower or garden shredder can speed the process.

    Autumn leaves are not simply waste. Used in the right place, they become useful material for the garden itself.

  • Should you leave part of the lawn unmown?

    Leaving some grass longer has become increasingly common in gardens. It can reduce mowing and provide more shelter and food for insects, but it does not mean that every lawn has to be abandoned.

    Start with a small area

    If you are unsure about longer grass, choose one edge, corner or strip rather than the whole lawn. Keeping paths and seating areas mown gives the garden a deliberate appearance while allowing other areas to grow.

    See what appears

    Existing lawns often contain more than grass. When mowing stops for a while, clover, daisies and other low-growing plants may flower. The result depends on the soil and on what is already present.

    Long grass still needs management

    An unmown area is not maintenance-free. At some point it will need cutting, and the cut material is usually best removed if the aim is to encourage a wider range of flowering plants rather than vigorous grass.

    Keep useful lawn where you need it

    Short grass is practical for play, walking and sitting. There is no reason a wildlife-friendly garden cannot include a conventional lawn alongside longer areas.

    Make it look intentional

    A neat mown edge around longer grass can make a surprisingly large difference. Curved paths or simple rectangular areas can turn what might look neglected into a clear part of the garden design.

    Leaving part of a lawn unmown is an easy experiment. Try a manageable area for one season and see how both the garden and its wildlife respond.

  • Simple things that support a garden

    Some of the most useful things in a garden are also among the simplest. A support that keeps a plant upright, a low piece of edging that gives a border a clear line, or a planter that makes planting possible where there is no open ground.

    Products like these have been part of our family’s trade for many years. Long before we began bringing our garden activities together through Good Garden since 2019, we were already supplying practical metal products for gardens alongside our wider hardware business.

    Plant supports

    Plant supports do a quiet job. They help taller or heavier plants keep their shape and can prevent stems from falling across paths or neighbouring plants. The best supports tend to disappear into the planting as the season progresses.

    Metal is particularly suitable because a relatively slender support can still be strong enough to remain useful from one season to the next.

    Edging and small garden hardware

    Low garden edging and border pieces are equally straightforward. They can define the edge of a bed, support planting or simply bring a little order to an informal garden.

    We have sold plant supports, edging and related garden hardware over many years. Some were offered through our established hardware business and online stores rather than as a separate Good Garden collection.

    Larger pieces

    Our interest in useful metalwork for the garden eventually extended to larger objects too. In 2019 started with large metal planters, with the first of that range selling in 2020. We returned to metal planters again in later years.

    They appealed to us for much the same reason as the smaller pieces: metal can give a garden structure without demanding too much attention itself, and a well-proportioned planter can remain useful even as the planting around it changes.

    Things that earn their place

    Not every garden product needs to be complicated or new. Often the things worth keeping are the ones that solve a simple problem and continue doing it year after year.

    That idea remains an important part of Good Garden: looking carefully at what a garden actually needs, and choosing useful objects that can become a natural part of it.

  • Making more room for wildlife

    A garden does not need to become completely wild to provide useful habitat. Small changes can give insects, birds and other garden visitors more places to feed, shelter and breed.

    Grow a mixture of plants

    Flowers with different shapes and flowering periods provide food for a wider range of insects. Trees and shrubs add shelter and can provide berries, seeds and nesting places later in the year.

    Leave some cover

    Not every stem needs to be cut down in autumn. Hollow stems, seed heads and small areas of leaf litter can provide winter shelter. A less disturbed corner behind a shed or beneath a hedge can also be valuable.

    Add water

    Even a small source of water can attract wildlife. A pond is particularly useful, but a shallow container can also provide drinking water. Make sure animals have a safe way to get in and out.

    Reduce unnecessary chemicals

    Before using a pesticide, consider whether the problem needs treatment at all. Many insects are harmless or useful, and birds and predatory insects can help keep some pests under control.

    Keep routes open

    Hedges and connected planting allow animals to move through gardens more easily than continuous hard fencing. Where suitable, small gaps at ground level can help species such as hedgehogs travel between neighbouring gardens.

    Wildlife-friendly gardening is often about doing a little less rather than adding complicated features. More plants, more shelter and fewer unnecessary disturbances can make a noticeable difference.

  • Preparing the garden for winter

    Autumn is a useful time to prepare the garden for colder and wetter weather. Not every plant needs cutting back and not every corner needs to be tidy, but a few practical jobs can prevent problems during winter.

    Clear what needs clearing

    Remove diseased plant material and fallen fruit that is beginning to rot. Healthy leaves can often be composted or used as leaf mould. Seed heads and sturdy stems can be left where they provide winter structure or shelter for wildlife.

    Protect vulnerable pots

    Containers are more exposed to frost than plants growing in open ground. Move tender plants to a protected place where possible. Check that outdoor pots can drain freely so that they do not remain waterlogged.

    Plant while the soil is workable

    Autumn can be a good time for planting many hardy trees and shrubs because the soil is still relatively warm and natural rainfall helps roots establish. Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or saturated.

    Look after tools

    Clean soil from spades, forks and hand tools before storing them. Dry metal parts and check wooden handles. Cutting tools can be cleaned and sharpened ready for the next season.

    Winter preparation is mainly about protecting vulnerable plants and leaving the garden in good working order. There is no need to remove every sign of the season.

  • Watering the garden in dry weather

    Long dry periods can put established gardens under pressure. Water is especially important for new plants, containers and vegetables, but the way you water matters as much as the amount.

    Water thoroughly

    A light sprinkling only wets the surface. For plants in the ground, slower and more thorough watering encourages moisture to reach deeper into the soil. This is generally more useful than frequent small amounts.

    Pay attention to new planting

    Recently planted trees, shrubs and perennials have smaller root systems and cannot yet draw water from a large area. Check them regularly during their first growing seasons.

    Containers need more attention

    Pots can dry quickly in warm or windy weather. Large containers hold moisture longer than small ones, but all should have drainage holes. Check the compost rather than watering automatically if conditions have changed.

    Water at a sensible time

    Early morning is a convenient time because temperatures are usually lower and plants have water available for the day. If necessary, evening watering is also useful. Direct the water towards the soil rather than routinely wetting foliage.

    Reduce evaporation

    A layer of organic mulch can help the soil retain moisture and can also reduce weed growth. Apply it when the soil is already moist rather than covering very dry ground and expecting it to solve the problem.

    During dry weather, concentrate on the plants that need help most. Established plants in suitable soil often cope better than newly planted areas and containers.