Category: Tools & Skills

  • How to clean and store garden tools for winter

    How to clean and store garden tools for winter

    The end of the main growing season is a useful time to deal with tools before they disappear into a damp shed for several months. Soil, sap and moisture left on metal encourage corrosion, while loose handles and blunt blades are easier to fix now than when spring work has already begun.

    Winter tool care does not need to become a large restoration project. A methodical hour with the tools you use most can prevent many common failures.

    Start by sorting what you actually use

    Bring together hand tools, spades, forks, secateurs, loppers and saws. Separate tools that are ready for routine cleaning from those needing repair.

    This is also a good moment to identify duplicates or damaged tools that are taking up storage space without being useful.

    Remove soil from metal surfaces

    Allow heavy clay to dry slightly if that makes it easier to brush away. Use a stiff brush or wooden scraper rather than immediately storing tools covered in wet soil.

    If tools are washed, dry them thoroughly afterwards.

    Remove sap and resin

    Pruning tools often develop sticky deposits that interfere with blade movement. Clean these before storage using an appropriate cleaner for the tool.

    Pay particular attention to pivots and areas where two blades move against each other.

    Inspect for rust

    Light surface rust can often be removed with a fine abrasive or wire brush. Once clean, protect bare steel with a very light coating of suitable oil.

    Deep corrosion, cracks or severe thinning may indicate that the part is no longer safe.

    Check wooden handles

    Look for splits, rough fibres and looseness where the handle enters the metal socket. Light sanding can remove uncomfortable roughness.

    Depending on the wood and manufacturer recommendations, a suitable oil can help prevent the handle becoming excessively dry.

    Tighten loose fittings

    Check bolts, screws and pivots. A small amount of movement now can become a major failure when the tool is under load.

    Replace missing fasteners with appropriate parts rather than improvising with something that changes the tool’s strength or movement.

    Sharpen cutting tools

    Secateurs, loppers, hoes and some spades benefit from a maintained cutting edge. Sharpen according to the original blade geometry rather than making every tool razor sharp.

    Saws generally require specialist sharpening or blade replacement depending on their design.

    Lubricate pivots and springs

    After cleaning, place a small amount of appropriate lubricant on moving joints. Open and close the tool several times to distribute it, then wipe away excess.

    Store tools dry and off the ground

    A damp concrete or soil floor is a poor place for metal tools. Hang long-handled tools where possible or store them in a rack with good airflow.

    Avoid wrapping damp tools tightly in plastic because trapped moisture can accelerate corrosion.

    Think about safety

    Close and lock secateurs, cover exposed saw teeth where appropriate and store sharp edges where they cannot be reached accidentally.

    Heavy long-handled tools should be secure rather than balanced loosely against a wall where they can fall.

    Repair or replace?

    Quality tools are often repairable. Handles, blades, springs and bolts may all be replaceable depending on the design.

    Repair makes sense where the structural parts remain sound. A cracked socket, severely bent fork or badly weakened metal may need professional assessment or replacement.

    A clean tool is easier to reach for

    Winter maintenance has a practical benefit beyond extending tool life. When the first planting and pruning jobs arrive in spring, tools are ready to use rather than becoming another job that needs doing first.

    See also Keeping garden tools in good condition and Preparing the garden for winter.

  • How to stake tall perennials discreetly

    How to stake tall perennials discreetly

    Plant supports work best when you hardly notice them. Tall perennials can collapse after wind and rain, but heavy staking added after stems have already fallen often leaves a border looking tied together rather than naturally supported.

    The most effective technique is usually to provide support early, while stems are still growing through and around it.

    Which plants need support?

    Not every tall perennial needs staking. Plants growing in rich soil or partial shade may become taller and softer than the same variety in leaner, sunnier conditions.

    Repeatedly collapsing plants, large heavy flower heads and exposed positions are useful signs that support may help.

    Support early

    Install supports while plants are still relatively short. As the stems grow, foliage hides the structure and the support becomes integrated into the plant.

    Waiting until flowering stems have fallen usually requires taller stakes and visible ties.

    Use twiggy branches for informal support

    Branched prunings pushed into the soil around an emerging clump create a natural network through which stems can grow.

    This traditional method is particularly effective in informal planting because the support almost disappears once foliage develops.

    Metal grow-through supports

    Grid or ring supports positioned over a young plant allow stems to emerge through separate openings. They are useful for large clump-forming perennials and plants with multiple flowering stems.

    Choose a support that will finish below the mature flower heads so the plant remains visually dominant.

    Individual stakes

    A single tall stem may need its own stake. Position the stake close enough to support the stem without driving it directly through the main crown or root system.

    Tie the stem loosely enough to allow some natural movement and thickening.

    Use soft ties

    Wire and very thin string can cut into growing stems. Use soft garden twine or flexible ties that spread pressure over a wider area.

    Check ties later in the season because stems may expand considerably.

    Do not pull every stem into a tight bundle

    A common mistake is to tie a wide clump tightly to one central stake. This changes the natural shape of the plant and creates an obvious narrow waist.

    Several discreet supports around the clump usually produce a more natural outline.

    Consider neighbouring plants

    Dense surrounding planting can provide a degree of natural support. Strong neighbouring perennials and shrubs break the wind and help stems remain upright.

    This is one reason layered planting often needs less obvious staking than isolated specimen plants.

    Reduce the need for staking

    Plants become more prone to collapse when grown in excessive shade or very rich conditions. If a perennial repeatedly becomes taller than expected, check whether its position suits it.

    A plant that needs a complex framework every year may simply be in the wrong place.

    The Chelsea chop

    Some late-flowering perennials can be cut back partially in late spring to produce shorter, bushier growth and later flowers. This technique is often known as the Chelsea chop.

    It is not suitable for every perennial. Check the response of the particular plant before cutting valuable growth.

    Remove supports at the end of the season

    Once plants are cut down or have collapsed naturally, collect reusable supports, clean them where necessary and store them dry.

    Leaving metal grids hidden in bare borders can create a trip hazard during winter work.

    Good staking preserves the plant’s character

    The aim is not to make every stem perfectly vertical. A good support prevents destructive collapse while allowing enough movement for the plant to retain its natural form.

    For border structure, read Planting a garden for the seasons. For summer tools, see A few useful tools for summer gardening.

  • How to choose a garden trowel

    How to choose a garden trowel

    A garden trowel is one of the simplest tools in the shed, but it is also one of the most frequently used. Planting small perennials, bulbs and bedding plants, filling containers and working compost into a planting hole all put slightly different demands on the same small hand tool.

    A good trowel does not need complicated features. It needs a useful blade shape, enough strength for the soil you garden in and a handle that remains comfortable when the work takes longer than expected.

    Start with the work you actually do

    A wide scoop-shaped trowel is useful for moving compost and making generous planting holes. A narrower blade is easier to place between established plants and can penetrate firmer soil with less resistance.

    If most of your gardening happens in containers, weight and control may matter more than brute strength. If you regularly work in dense clay, rigidity and a strong connection between blade and handle become more important.

    Blade shape

    A traditional pointed blade is versatile because the tip can open soil while the wider section moves a useful amount of material. Very rounded blades scoop well but may be less effective in firm ground.

    Extremely narrow blades are useful for precision planting and weeds, but they are not necessarily the best general-purpose trowel.

    Blade material

    Stainless steel resists corrosion well and is easy to clean. Carbon steel can be extremely strong and take a useful working edge but needs more attention after use because bare steel can rust.

    Thickness alone does not determine strength. The shape of the blade, the quality of the steel and the way the shank is formed all contribute to how the tool behaves under pressure.

    Look closely at the blade-to-handle connection

    This is where cheap hand tools often fail. A thin spot, weak weld or short tang can loosen after repeated levering.

    A trowel intended for demanding soil should have a substantial connection between the blade and handle. Ideally, the tool should feel like one continuous structure rather than two pieces simply attached to each other.

    Handle length and grip

    Very short handles offer control but can require more wrist effort. A slightly longer handle provides useful leverage. Too long, however, and a hand trowel begins to lose the precision that makes it useful.

    Hold the tool before buying where possible. The handle should sit naturally in the hand without sharp edges or an oversized grip forcing the fingers apart.

    Wood or synthetic handles?

    Both can work well. A shaped hardwood handle feels warm and traditional and can last for many years when kept dry and maintained. Modern synthetic handles can be highly durable and need little maintenance.

    The quality of the shape and construction matters more than the material alone.

    Weight is a balance

    A very light trowel can feel pleasant initially but may flex in difficult ground. An unnecessarily heavy one becomes tiring during repetitive planting.

    A good general-purpose tool feels substantial enough to trust without making every planting job harder.

    Depth markings are useful, but secondary

    Some trowels include measurements on the blade for planting depth. These can be convenient for bulbs and young plants, but they should not be the main reason for choosing a tool.

    A strong, comfortable trowel without markings is more useful than a weak one with a ruler printed on it.

    Do not use a trowel as a crowbar

    Even a strong hand tool has limits. Levering large stones, cutting thick woody roots or forcing the blade deep into compacted ground can damage the tool and your wrist.

    Use a fork, spade, root saw or other appropriate tool when the job becomes larger than the trowel.

    A good trowel should become familiar

    The best hand tools often disappear into the work. You stop thinking about the trowel and concentrate on the plant, the soil and the job in front of you. That is a better measure of quality than a long list of features.

    For broader tool care, read Keeping garden tools in good condition. For seasonal tool use, see A few useful tools for summer gardening.

  • How to use a garden fork properly

    How to use a garden fork properly

    A garden fork is often treated as a rough digging tool, but its real strength is that it can loosen soil with less cutting and turning than a spade. Used well, it is useful for lifting plants, breaking compacted ground, aerating soil and moving organic material.

    The important part is working with the tines rather than using the handle as a lever beyond what the tool can safely tolerate.

    Garden fork or border fork?

    A full-sized garden fork is suited to larger areas and heavier work. A border fork is smaller and easier to control between established plants.

    If you mainly work in densely planted borders, the smaller tool may be more useful than a large fork that damages neighbouring roots and foliage simply because there is not enough room to use it properly.

    Use your weight, not only your arms

    Place the tines where you want them to enter the soil and use your foot on the tread where the fork provides one. Keep your body balanced and let your weight help push the fork into the ground.

    Repeatedly forcing a fork into resistant ground using only your arms is tiring and increases the temptation to twist the handle excessively.

    Loosening soil without turning it completely

    Insert the tines vertically, then draw the handle back slightly to create cracks and air spaces. Move a short distance and repeat.

    This can loosen compacted ground without completely inverting the soil profile.

    Do not work saturated soil

    Forking very wet clay can do more harm than good. The soil smears and compacts, and foot traffic damages its structure.

    Wait until the ground is moist but workable rather than sticky enough to cling heavily to tools.

    Lifting established plants

    A fork is particularly useful when lifting perennials because the tines can move through soil with less cutting than a spade blade.

    Begin outside the main crown and work around the plant gradually. Loosen the root ball from several sides rather than trying to lever the whole plant out from one position.

    Use two forks for dividing some perennials

    Dense clumps can sometimes be separated with two forks inserted back-to-back into the root mass. Push the handles towards each other so the tines move apart and separate the plant.

    This works best with suitable fibrous-rooted perennials. It is not appropriate for every plant.

    Aerating compacted areas

    On a small lawn, a garden fork can create aeration holes in heavily trafficked areas. Push the tines into the soil at regular intervals and gently ease them back.

    For large lawns or very severe compaction, specialist aeration equipment is more efficient.

    Moving compost and mulch

    A fork is often better than a spade for moving coarse compost, manure and fibrous mulch because the tines enter the material easily.

    Choose the correct fork for the job: a broad manure or compost fork is more efficient for loose material than a narrow digging fork.

    Avoid excessive levering

    If the tines are buried beneath a large stone or thick root, forcing the handle backwards can bend tines or damage the shaft.

    Reposition the fork, loosen the surrounding soil and use an appropriate tool for the obstruction.

    Keep the tines clean

    Soil left packed between the tines holds moisture against the metal. Brush or wash the fork clean after heavy use and let it dry before storage.

    The fork is a soil-reading tool

    Used slowly, a garden fork tells you a great deal about the ground. You feel compacted layers, roots, stones and changes in soil structure through the handle. That feedback helps you work more carefully than simply forcing a blade through everything in the way.

    For improving difficult ground, see A simple guide to garden compost. For tool maintenance, read Keeping garden tools in good condition.

  • How to choose and use secateurs

    How to choose and use secateurs

    Secateurs are the tool behind thousands of small decisions in a garden. Deadheading, pruning roses, cutting back stems and removing damaged growth all depend on making a clean cut without crushing the plant or straining the hand.

    The right pair should match your hand, the kind of pruning you do and the diameter of material you regularly cut.

    Bypass or anvil?

    Bypass secateurs have two blades that pass each other like scissors. They are generally the preferred choice for clean cuts on living stems.

    Anvil secateurs use one cutting blade against a flat surface. They can provide useful leverage on dry or dead material but may crush softer living stems more easily.

    Hand size matters

    A pair that opens too widely can be tiring for smaller hands. A tool that is too small can reduce leverage and encourage you to force cuts it was not designed to make.

    Where possible, hold the secateurs before buying. Open and close them repeatedly and check whether the handles sit comfortably without excessive stretching.

    Do not buy on cutting diameter alone

    Manufacturers often specify a maximum cutting capacity. Treat this as a limit rather than a target for every cut.

    If a stem requires significant force, use loppers or a pruning saw. Repeatedly forcing thick branches through secateurs damages blades, pivots and hands.

    How to position bypass secateurs

    The sharp cutting blade should normally be placed on the side of the stem you want to keep. The thicker counter-blade sits on the waste side.

    This keeps the cleanest part of the cut on the remaining plant.

    Cut close, but not too close

    When pruning above a bud, leave a small amount of stem rather than cutting into the bud itself. Avoid leaving long dead stubs that later die back.

    The exact cut depends on the plant, but clean placement matters more than an exaggerated angle.

    Make one decisive cut

    Repeatedly chewing at a stem with half-closed blades creates ragged damage. Open the secateurs fully, position them correctly and make one controlled cut.

    If the blades will not pass through comfortably, change tools.

    Keep the pivot adjusted

    Loose blades twist and tear rather than meeting correctly. Excessively tight secateurs are tiring and may not reopen smoothly.

    Many quality secateurs allow the central pivot to be adjusted so the blades move freely without sideways play.

    Clean sticky blades

    Sap and resin build up during pruning and make the blades drag. Wipe the tool regularly during large jobs rather than waiting until the mechanism becomes difficult to move.

    After working on diseased plant material, clean the blades appropriately before moving to healthy plants where disease transfer is a concern.

    Sharpen the cutting blade, not both sides randomly

    Bypass secateur blades are usually bevelled deliberately. Sharpening should maintain the original geometry rather than creating a new edge shape.

    Light regular sharpening is easier than waiting until the blade is badly dull or damaged.

    Use the wrist in a natural position

    Awkward cuts made at full reach increase strain and reduce control. Reposition yourself so the stem is comfortably accessible where possible.

    For repetitive pruning, change position regularly and avoid squeezing harder than necessary.

    Good secateurs should be maintainable

    Replaceable blades, springs and other wear parts can make a good pair of secateurs useful for decades. A tool that can be dismantled, cleaned and repaired is often a better long-term choice than one designed to be discarded when it becomes blunt.

    For practical pruning, see How to prune roses. For maintenance, read Keeping garden tools in good condition.

  • How to sharpen secateurs

    How to sharpen secateurs

    Sharp secateurs make cleaner cuts, require less hand pressure and are easier to control. A blade does not need to be visibly damaged to have become dull; gradual wear is enough to make pruning feel increasingly heavy and leave crushed or ragged stems.

    Regular light maintenance is usually better than waiting until the edge needs major repair.

    Clean before sharpening

    Remove soil, dried sap and resin first. Sharpening over dirt makes it difficult to see the original blade angle and can contaminate the sharpening tool.

    Use the cleaning method recommended for the secateurs and dry metal parts afterwards.

    Inspect the blade

    Look for chips, rolled edges, cracks and excessive wear. Light dullness can normally be corrected at home. A badly chipped or damaged blade may need professional attention or replacement.

    Understand which edge is bevelled

    On bypass secateurs, the cutting blade usually has a bevel on one side while the back is comparatively flat. Preserve that geometry.

    Sharpening both sides equally can alter the way the blades meet and reduce cutting performance.

    Choose a suitable sharpening tool

    A small diamond file, fine sharpening stone or tool specifically designed for secateurs can all work. The important thing is that it allows controlled contact with the blade at the correct angle.

    A very coarse file removes material quickly but is unnecessarily aggressive for routine maintenance.

    Follow the existing bevel

    Lay the sharpener against the bevel and use smooth strokes along the cutting edge. Follow the angle already established by the manufacturer rather than trying to create a steeper, razor-like edge.

    Work progressively along the whole blade so one area does not become hollow or over-sharpened.

    Remove the burr carefully

    Sharpening can create a very fine burr on the flat side of the blade. A light pass with a fine stone or file can remove it.

    Do not grind a second bevel into the back of the blade.

    Check blade alignment

    A sharp blade still performs poorly if it does not pass closely against the counter-blade. Check for sideways movement at the pivot.

    If the model allows adjustment, tighten the pivot enough to remove excessive play while keeping movement smooth.

    Lubricate the moving parts

    After cleaning and sharpening, apply a small amount of suitable lubricant to the pivot and moving surfaces. Wipe away excess.

    This reduces friction and helps protect metal components during storage.

    Test on a real stem

    A piece of paper can show whether a blade is sharp, but secateurs are designed for plant stems. Test them on clean healthy pruning material of a suitable diameter.

    The cut should be smooth and require noticeably less pressure than before sharpening.

    When should secateurs be sharpened?

    There is no fixed schedule because use varies enormously. Check them when cuts begin to look crushed, when more pressure is needed or before a major pruning season.

    A light touch-up several times a year can be easier than one heavy sharpening session.

    Do not sharpen away damage indefinitely

    Blades are consumable parts. Once a blade has been sharpened repeatedly, become badly chipped or no longer aligns correctly, replacement may be the better option.

    Maintenance changes how a tool feels

    A clean, sharp and correctly adjusted pair of secateurs requires less force and gives much better feedback through the hand. The improvement is often more noticeable than buying a new tool simply because the existing one has become neglected.

    See Keeping garden tools in good condition for broader tool maintenance.

  • Keeping garden tools in good condition

    Garden tools last longer and work better when they are kept clean and dry. A few minutes of maintenance during the year can prevent rust, loose handles and blunt cutting edges.

    Remove soil after use

    Wet soil left on metal tools encourages corrosion. Brush or wash it off and allow the tool to dry before putting it away. A stiff brush kept in the shed is useful for this job.

    Look after cutting tools

    Secateurs, shears and loppers work best with clean, sharp blades. Remove plant residue and sap, and sharpen the cutting edge when necessary. Damaged or badly worn parts should be repaired or replaced.

    Check wooden handles

    Wooden handles can become rough or dry with age. Light sanding can remove splinters. A suitable oil applied occasionally helps protect unfinished wood, particularly on tools that are used frequently.

    Store tools under cover

    Even robust garden tools should not be left outside for long periods. A dry shed, garage or covered storage area protects both metal and wooden parts. Hanging larger tools also keeps the floor clear and makes damage easier to notice.

    A well-made tool should give many years of service. Regular cleaning and simple maintenance are usually all that is needed to keep it ready for work.

  • A few useful tools for summer gardening

    Summer gardening does not require a shed full of equipment. A small number of reliable tools will deal with most everyday jobs, from weeding and planting to cutting back spent flowers.

    A good hand trowel

    A strong hand trowel is useful throughout the season. It can be used for planting small plants, working compost into the soil and removing weeds with shallow roots. Look for a comfortable handle and a blade that does not flex easily.

    Secateurs

    Sharp secateurs make cleaner cuts than scissors or blunt garden tools. They are useful for deadheading, light pruning and removing damaged stems. Clean the blades regularly, particularly after working on unhealthy plants.

    A hand fork

    A hand fork is useful for loosening the surface of compacted soil and working around established plants where a larger fork would be awkward. It is also handy for lifting small weeds without disturbing the whole border.

    Watering equipment

    A watering can remains useful even where a hose is available. It gives more control around newly planted areas and containers. For larger gardens, a hose with a simple adjustable nozzle saves time.

    Keep it simple

    Buy tools for jobs you actually do. A few well-made tools that feel comfortable in the hand are generally more useful than a large collection that rarely leaves the shed.

    Summer is when garden tools are used most often. Keeping the basic ones clean, sharp and easy to find makes everyday gardening considerably easier.