Category: How to

How to tutorials and basics for the garden.

  • How to renew a tired garden border

    How to renew a tired garden border

    Good Garden · How to

    A border can lose its shape without being beyond repair. The most successful renewal usually comes from careful editing: keep what is thriving, remove what no longer earns its place and rebuild a clear rhythm around the plants that remain.

    Best time
    Early spring or early autumn

    Time needed
    One day for about 5–8 m²

    Difficulty
    Moderate

    Before you begin: decide what “tired” means

    A border may look tired because plants have become congested, weeds have filled the gaps, one vigorous species has taken over or the planting has no clear structure. Spend ten quiet minutes looking before you lift a single plant. Mark healthy shrubs, repeated perennials and any self-seeded plants worth keeping.

    If the soil is waterlogged, extremely dry or frozen, wait. Working soil in poor conditions damages its structure and makes replanting harder.

    What you will need

    • A sharp spade and border fork
    • Hand fork or cultivator
    • Secateurs and a garden knife
    • Two buckets or crates: one for plants to keep, one for weeds and waste
    • Tarpaulin for temporarily holding lifted plants
    • Mature compost or well-rotted organic matter
    • Mulch and a watering can or hose

    1. Photograph and mark the existing border

    Take a photograph from the main viewing position. It records plant locations and often reveals where the composition has become muddled. Use short canes or labels to mark plants that disappear below ground or are easily confused when lifted.

    2. Remove weeds and obvious failures first

    Start with perennial weeds, dead plants and anything badly diseased. Remove roots carefully rather than chopping them into the soil. Do not clear the whole border simply because renewal has begun: established plants are valuable, and retaining them makes the finished border feel settled sooner.

    3. Lift and divide congested perennials

    Perennials that flower less, flop open in the centre or have formed an oversized clump often benefit from division. Lift the rootball with a fork, shake away loose soil and split it into healthy sections. Keep the vigorous outer pieces and discard exhausted centres.

    Aim for fewer, stronger divisions rather than many tiny fragments. A good section should have several healthy shoots and a useful amount of root.

    4. Improve the soil without overfeeding it

    Loosen compacted areas to the depth of a fork and work a modest layer of mature compost into the topsoil. Avoid creating isolated pockets of rich material beneath individual plants; roots establish more evenly when the improvement is spread across the bed. On heavy soil, work gently and preserve existing crumb structure.

    5. Rebuild the planting around structure and rhythm

    Place the structural plants first: shrubs, evergreen forms, grasses or strong upright perennials. Then repeat reliable plants in groups rather than scattering one of everything. Allow enough room for mature growth and leave deliberate gaps for bulbs or later additions.

    1. Set out all plants while still in their pots or divisions.
    2. Step back to check the border from its normal viewing point.
    3. Repeat two or three key plants to connect the composition.
    4. Keep taller forms from blocking paths or smothering smaller neighbours.
    5. Only begin planting once the overall balance feels calm.

    6. Plant, water and mulch

    Replant divisions at roughly their previous depth, firm the soil gently and water thoroughly. Apply a 4–6 cm layer of mulch while keeping it clear of crowns and woody stems. Mulch reduces evaporation, suppresses annual weeds and gives the renewed border a visually coherent finish.

    Common mistakes to avoid

    • Replacing everything at once. You lose mature structure and create more maintenance.
    • Dividing plants too small. Weak pieces establish slowly and dry out quickly.
    • Planting for immediate fullness. Crowded plants soon recreate the original problem.
    • Adding too much compost or fertiliser. Lush, soft growth can become floppy and vulnerable.
    • Ignoring the view from the house. A border should work from the places where it is seen most often.

    Aftercare during the first season

    Water deeply during dry spells for the first six to eight weeks. Check newly divided plants every few days at first, then weekly. Remove competing weeds while they are small. Resist filling every remaining gap immediately: watch how the retained plants respond and use the first season to identify what the border genuinely still needs.

    Final check

    • The strongest existing plants have been retained.
    • Perennials have enough space to reach mature size.
    • Key shapes or colours repeat through the border.
    • Bare soil is mulched but plant crowns remain clear.
    • You have left room to observe before buying more.

    A renewed border should not look completely finished on day one. It should have a clear structure, healthy soil and enough space to grow into itself.

  • Planting a garden for the seasons

    A garden is easier to enjoy throughout the year when its planting is not designed around a single month. Flowers are important, but foliage, bark, berries, seed heads and the shape of plants all contribute to seasonal interest.

    Begin with structure

    Trees, hedges and shrubs form the framework of a garden. Evergreens provide winter presence, while deciduous plants can offer blossom, autumn colour or attractive bare branches. A mixture usually gives a more natural rhythm through the year.

    Spread the flowering season

    Choose plants that flower at different times rather than concentrating everything in late spring and early summer. Bulbs can start the season, followed by perennials and shrubs, with later flowers carrying colour into autumn.

    Remember foliage

    Leaves occupy the garden for much longer than most flowers. Different greens, silver foliage, grasses and plants with strong leaf shapes can keep a border interesting between flowering periods.

    Leave something for winter

    Seed heads and dried grasses can remain attractive after growth has stopped. Berries provide colour and food for birds. Cutting everything to ground level in autumn can remove much of this winter character.

    Observe before changing

    Photographs or simple notes taken through the year can reveal periods when a border has very little interest. Add plants to fill those gaps rather than redesigning the whole area.

    A garden for the seasons develops over time. The aim is not constant colour, but a garden that always has something worth noticing.

  • Keeping garden tools in good condition

    Garden tools last longer and work better when they are kept clean and dry. A few minutes of maintenance during the year can prevent rust, loose handles and blunt cutting edges.

    Remove soil after use

    Wet soil left on metal tools encourages corrosion. Brush or wash it off and allow the tool to dry before putting it away. A stiff brush kept in the shed is useful for this job.

    Look after cutting tools

    Secateurs, shears and loppers work best with clean, sharp blades. Remove plant residue and sap, and sharpen the cutting edge when necessary. Damaged or badly worn parts should be repaired or replaced.

    Check wooden handles

    Wooden handles can become rough or dry with age. Light sanding can remove splinters. A suitable oil applied occasionally helps protect unfinished wood, particularly on tools that are used frequently.

    Store tools under cover

    Even robust garden tools should not be left outside for long periods. A dry shed, garage or covered storage area protects both metal and wooden parts. Hanging larger tools also keeps the floor clear and makes damage easier to notice.

    A well-made tool should give many years of service. Regular cleaning and simple maintenance are usually all that is needed to keep it ready for work.

  • Slugs in the garden

    Slugs are part of almost every garden, but they become particularly noticeable when they damage young vegetables, seedlings and soft new growth. Damp weather usually makes the problem worse.

    Protect the most vulnerable plants

    Established plants can often tolerate some feeding. Newly planted seedlings cannot. Concentrate your efforts on young plants and crops that are repeatedly damaged rather than trying to remove every slug from the garden.

    Check hiding places

    Slugs shelter in cool, damp places during the day. Pots, boards and dense vegetation close to vulnerable plants can provide cover. Keeping the immediate growing area reasonably clear can make it less inviting.

    Water in the morning

    Where practical, morning watering allows the soil surface to become drier by evening, when many slugs become active. Plants still receive the water they need without keeping the whole area damp overnight.

    Encourage natural predators

    Frogs, toads, some birds and ground beetles all feed on slugs or their eggs. A varied garden with shelter and water is more likely to support these predators.

    Use control methods carefully

    Barriers and other methods have mixed results and may work better in some gardens than others. Whatever approach you choose, consider its effect on pets and other wildlife and follow product instructions where a garden treatment is used.

    Slug damage is rarely eliminated completely. Protecting vulnerable plants and making conditions less favourable around them is usually a more realistic aim.

  • Choosing plants for a sunny border

    A sunny border gives you plenty of choice, but it is still worth looking carefully at the conditions before buying plants. Sun alone does not tell the whole story.

    How much sun is there?

    A place that receives direct sun for much of the day can become hot and dry in summer. South-facing walls can make this effect stronger. Other sunny borders may still have cool, moisture-retentive soil.

    Choose plants for the soil

    Lavender, rosemary and many Mediterranean plants prefer free-draining ground. Roses, hardy geraniums and many traditional border plants are more forgiving, provided the soil is reasonably fertile and does not stay waterlogged.

    Think about height

    Put taller plants where they will not hide smaller ones. In a border viewed mainly from one side, this usually means taller plants towards the back. Repeating a few plants along the border often gives a calmer result than using a different plant in every space.

    Leave room to grow

    Young plants can make a newly planted border look empty. Avoid filling every gap immediately. Most perennials and shrubs need time and space to reach their natural size.

    A good sunny border is not simply a collection of plants that like sunshine. Soil, height, flowering period and final size are just as important.

  • What to do with fallen leaves

    Fallen leaves can cover a garden quickly in autumn. They do not all need to be removed, but moving them from the right places keeps paths safe and gives lawns and small plants enough light.

    Clear paths and paving

    Wet leaves can become slippery, so paths, steps and frequently used paved areas are worth clearing regularly. Leaves can then be moved elsewhere in the garden rather than thrown away.

    Do not leave a thick layer on the lawn

    A heavy covering of leaves blocks light and air from the grass. Rake or collect them, particularly after large falls. A few scattered leaves are less of a problem.

    Use leaves in borders

    In less formal borders, a modest layer of leaves can break down naturally and provide shelter for insects and other small creatures. Avoid burying small evergreen plants under a thick, wet mat.

    Make leaf mould

    Collected leaves can be stored separately to decompose. A simple wire enclosure or ventilated bags can be used. Over time they break down into leaf mould, a useful material for improving soil structure and mulching.

    Some leaves take longer

    Thick, leathery leaves decompose more slowly than softer ones. Shredding them with a mower or garden shredder can speed the process.

    Autumn leaves are not simply waste. Used in the right place, they become useful material for the garden itself.

  • Should you leave part of the lawn unmown?

    Leaving some grass longer has become increasingly common in gardens. It can reduce mowing and provide more shelter and food for insects, but it does not mean that every lawn has to be abandoned.

    Start with a small area

    If you are unsure about longer grass, choose one edge, corner or strip rather than the whole lawn. Keeping paths and seating areas mown gives the garden a deliberate appearance while allowing other areas to grow.

    See what appears

    Existing lawns often contain more than grass. When mowing stops for a while, clover, daisies and other low-growing plants may flower. The result depends on the soil and on what is already present.

    Long grass still needs management

    An unmown area is not maintenance-free. At some point it will need cutting, and the cut material is usually best removed if the aim is to encourage a wider range of flowering plants rather than vigorous grass.

    Keep useful lawn where you need it

    Short grass is practical for play, walking and sitting. There is no reason a wildlife-friendly garden cannot include a conventional lawn alongside longer areas.

    Make it look intentional

    A neat mown edge around longer grass can make a surprisingly large difference. Curved paths or simple rectangular areas can turn what might look neglected into a clear part of the garden design.

    Leaving part of a lawn unmown is an easy experiment. Try a manageable area for one season and see how both the garden and its wildlife respond.

  • Simple things that support a garden

    Some of the most useful things in a garden are also among the simplest. A support that keeps a plant upright, a low piece of edging that gives a border a clear line, or a planter that makes planting possible where there is no open ground.

    Products like these have been part of our family’s trade for many years. Long before we began bringing our garden activities together through Good Garden since 2019, we were already supplying practical metal products for gardens alongside our wider hardware business.

    Plant supports

    Plant supports do a quiet job. They help taller or heavier plants keep their shape and can prevent stems from falling across paths or neighbouring plants. The best supports tend to disappear into the planting as the season progresses.

    Metal is particularly suitable because a relatively slender support can still be strong enough to remain useful from one season to the next.

    Edging and small garden hardware

    Low garden edging and border pieces are equally straightforward. They can define the edge of a bed, support planting or simply bring a little order to an informal garden.

    We have sold plant supports, edging and related garden hardware over many years. Some were offered through our established hardware business and online stores rather than as a separate Good Garden collection.

    Larger pieces

    Our interest in useful metalwork for the garden eventually extended to larger objects too. In 2019 started with large metal planters, with the first of that range selling in 2020. We returned to metal planters again in later years.

    They appealed to us for much the same reason as the smaller pieces: metal can give a garden structure without demanding too much attention itself, and a well-proportioned planter can remain useful even as the planting around it changes.

    Things that earn their place

    Not every garden product needs to be complicated or new. Often the things worth keeping are the ones that solve a simple problem and continue doing it year after year.

    That idea remains an important part of Good Garden: looking carefully at what a garden actually needs, and choosing useful objects that can become a natural part of it.

  • Making more room for wildlife

    A garden does not need to become completely wild to provide useful habitat. Small changes can give insects, birds and other garden visitors more places to feed, shelter and breed.

    Grow a mixture of plants

    Flowers with different shapes and flowering periods provide food for a wider range of insects. Trees and shrubs add shelter and can provide berries, seeds and nesting places later in the year.

    Leave some cover

    Not every stem needs to be cut down in autumn. Hollow stems, seed heads and small areas of leaf litter can provide winter shelter. A less disturbed corner behind a shed or beneath a hedge can also be valuable.

    Add water

    Even a small source of water can attract wildlife. A pond is particularly useful, but a shallow container can also provide drinking water. Make sure animals have a safe way to get in and out.

    Reduce unnecessary chemicals

    Before using a pesticide, consider whether the problem needs treatment at all. Many insects are harmless or useful, and birds and predatory insects can help keep some pests under control.

    Keep routes open

    Hedges and connected planting allow animals to move through gardens more easily than continuous hard fencing. Where suitable, small gaps at ground level can help species such as hedgehogs travel between neighbouring gardens.

    Wildlife-friendly gardening is often about doing a little less rather than adding complicated features. More plants, more shelter and fewer unnecessary disturbances can make a noticeable difference.

  • Preparing the garden for winter

    Autumn is a useful time to prepare the garden for colder and wetter weather. Not every plant needs cutting back and not every corner needs to be tidy, but a few practical jobs can prevent problems during winter.

    Clear what needs clearing

    Remove diseased plant material and fallen fruit that is beginning to rot. Healthy leaves can often be composted or used as leaf mould. Seed heads and sturdy stems can be left where they provide winter structure or shelter for wildlife.

    Protect vulnerable pots

    Containers are more exposed to frost than plants growing in open ground. Move tender plants to a protected place where possible. Check that outdoor pots can drain freely so that they do not remain waterlogged.

    Plant while the soil is workable

    Autumn can be a good time for planting many hardy trees and shrubs because the soil is still relatively warm and natural rainfall helps roots establish. Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or saturated.

    Look after tools

    Clean soil from spades, forks and hand tools before storing them. Dry metal parts and check wooden handles. Cutting tools can be cleaned and sharpened ready for the next season.

    Winter preparation is mainly about protecting vulnerable plants and leaving the garden in good working order. There is no need to remove every sign of the season.

  • Watering the garden in dry weather

    Long dry periods can put established gardens under pressure. Water is especially important for new plants, containers and vegetables, but the way you water matters as much as the amount.

    Water thoroughly

    A light sprinkling only wets the surface. For plants in the ground, slower and more thorough watering encourages moisture to reach deeper into the soil. This is generally more useful than frequent small amounts.

    Pay attention to new planting

    Recently planted trees, shrubs and perennials have smaller root systems and cannot yet draw water from a large area. Check them regularly during their first growing seasons.

    Containers need more attention

    Pots can dry quickly in warm or windy weather. Large containers hold moisture longer than small ones, but all should have drainage holes. Check the compost rather than watering automatically if conditions have changed.

    Water at a sensible time

    Early morning is a convenient time because temperatures are usually lower and plants have water available for the day. If necessary, evening watering is also useful. Direct the water towards the soil rather than routinely wetting foliage.

    Reduce evaporation

    A layer of organic mulch can help the soil retain moisture and can also reduce weed growth. Apply it when the soil is already moist rather than covering very dry ground and expecting it to solve the problem.

    During dry weather, concentrate on the plants that need help most. Established plants in suitable soil often cope better than newly planted areas and containers.

  • Peat-free compost in the garden

    Peat has traditionally been used in many bags of multipurpose compost because it holds water well and provides a consistent growing medium. Increasing concern about peatland loss has led to a much wider choice of peat-free alternatives.

    Why avoid peat?

    Peatlands develop very slowly and store large amounts of carbon. Removing peat damages these habitats and releases stored carbon. For gardeners, choosing peat-free compost is a straightforward way to reduce demand.

    What is peat-free compost made from?

    Products vary. They may contain composted bark, wood fibre, coir, green compost or mixtures of several materials. Because the ingredients differ, peat-free composts do not all behave in exactly the same way.

    Check moisture carefully

    Some peat-free mixes can look dry on the surface while remaining moist lower down, while others may dry more quickly than traditional peat compost. Check the compost with a finger rather than watering only by appearance.

    Use the right compost for the job

    Multipurpose peat-free compost is suitable for many containers and general planting jobs. Seeds and young plants may benefit from a finer seed compost. Acid-loving plants need an appropriate ericaceous product.

    Expect products to improve

    Peat-free compost has changed considerably as manufacturers have developed new mixtures. If one product does not work well in your garden, it can be worth trying another rather than returning automatically to peat.

    Good growing still depends on water, nutrients, drainage and the needs of the plant. Peat-free compost simply provides a different starting material.